21 Jun 23:26
Re: P38 Seat and Zip Ties
From: Tom Roche <Tom_Roche <at> pobox.com>
Subject: Re: P38 Seat and Zip Ties
Newsgroups: gmane.culture.transportation.humanpowered.general
Date: 2008-06-21 21:29:41 GMT
Subject: Re: P38 Seat and Zip Ties
Newsgroups: gmane.culture.transportation.humanpowered.general
Date: 2008-06-21 21:29:41 GMT
Scott Yoho Fri, 20 Jun 2008 09:08:57 -0500 > Once my lightning P38 gets wet, the seat fabric (and/or the cording > holding it in place) stretches I have a Stealth, not a P38, but I have the same problem. The fabric doesn't even need to get wet: just high humidity will make it stretch significantly more than usual. > enough so the seat back rubs on the rear tire[....] Under the seat > fabric I added a grommeted "underseat" made of Phifertex fabric > http://store.valueweb.com/servlet/poweron/Detail?no=3D82 > which presumably doesn't stretch when wet). In addition to keeping > the seat from getting close to the wheel this also acts as a > protective barrier if the seat and tire do meet (the underseat will > rub on the tire first). IMHO fenders provide a much more robust seat/tire barrier (not to mention seat/rain barrier> I've also replaced the cording with zip ties through the grommets in > both the P38 seat and the underseat. I've done that also, but mainly because I got tired of - replacing the whole seat cord whenever I put the bike down - retensioning the whole seat cord due to stretch It's just a whole lot easier to replace a few zipties than a seat cord. Plus retensioning is much less necessary, and trivial/precise with a third hand. > The new problem is that some of the zip ties seem to work loose > after a few rides. What do you mean by "work loose"? I've found that new zipties * often break ("infant mortality
* stretch a bit So when you first re/lace a seat, be sure to tension both sides equally (i.e. pull the same amount through the head of the tie): this is easy to do with a third hand. Then don't clip them! Wait a few rides to let them stretch (and to replace the ones that die young), then go back and retension them all, and clip the ends as desired. > Maybe I used the wrong ties? Mine are the "Commercial Electric" > brand, distributed by Home Depot[....] The packaging makes the > following claims: > - Indoor/Outdoor > - Meets Military Specification > - UV Resistant > - 75lb Tensile Strength > - Double Lock Grip (33% stronger) > They're roughly 5/32" (I believe that's 4mm) wide. I think I could > go a little wider, Not necessary. I also get my zipties @ HD or wherever. Just be sure to get ones marked UV resistant, and tensile strength >= 50 lb. (FWIW I currently have Thomas & Betts' 7" "Ty-Rap Premium Tie/UV.") Buy a bag of count >= 100, and keep the rest with your travel tools (whatever you keep in your seatback bag) for use when needed. (Zipties usually break in ones or twos, but occasionally, e.g. after a sharp cold snap, they can break en masse.) HTH, Tom Roche <Tom_Roche <at> pobox.com> -- This message comes to you via the hpv <at> bikelist.org mailing list, sponsored by http://ihpva.org/ Visit http://bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/hpv to manage your subscription.
> I've also replaced the cording with zip ties through the grommets in
> both the P38 seat and the underseat.
I've done that also, but mainly because I got tired of
- replacing the whole seat cord whenever I put the bike down
- retensioning the whole seat cord due to stretch
It's just a whole lot easier to replace a few zipties than a seat
cord. Plus retensioning is much less necessary, and trivial/precise
with a third hand.
> The new problem is that some of the zip ties seem to work loose
> after a few rides.
What do you mean by "work loose"? I've found that new zipties
* often break ("infant mortality
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